Cleansing & Shampoo

The Essential Guide to Cleansing Natural Hair

Natural Hair Nysa / May 3, 2018

Thoroughly cleansing natural hair is an integral part of any healthy hair journey.  Depending on the product(s) used, you may also get the benefits of additional vitamins, nutrients, and moisture in the process.  In this post we will discuss the cleansing component of a hair regimen, including the overall benefits & some of the products available to you.

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Cleansing Natural Hair 101

To me cleansing natural hair means washing it.  The wash should remove oils, products, dirt, and debris from your scalp and hair.  Now this is normally performed by using some sort of shampoo.  Many shampoos contain a surfactant, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, to facilitate the cleansing process. Others are surfactant-free, using less harsh ingredients to clean the hair and scalp.

Some naturals prefer to wash their hair with conditioner, otherwise known as co-washing.  Conditioners do have many of the same ingredients as traditional shampoos, although the cleansing agents are present in lesser quantities.  In addition, conditioners usually possess more emollients to moisturize the hair.

 

Some Things to Note About Cleansing

In my opinion, shampoo has gotten somewhat of a bad rap in the natural world.  Yes, some shampoos can be harsh and strip the hair of much needed moisture during the washing process.  Nevertheless, a dirty scalp and or excessive product buildup are detrimental to growing healthy natural hair.

I rotation wash my hair with sulfate-containing shampoos, sulfate-free shampoos, and conditioners, depending on my hair’s condition.  I tend to use a sulfate-containing shampoo once every 4-6 weeks in conjunction with my henna treatments, as my hair tends to take the treatment better post sulfate.  The rest of the time I use a sulfate-free shampoo in my weekly regimen.  I co-wash when I need to cleanse in between my routine weekly washings.  Of course, every natural needs to find what works best for his/her hair.

Given that, there are a few tricks of the trade I have found to make washes easier no matter what product you use:

  • Invest the time in a pre-poo treatment. Check out my recent Pre-poo post to get the skinny on this must-have part of my regimen.
  • Be sure to thoroughly drench your hair with warm water before beginning your cleansing activities. I usually just stand under the water for 1-2 minutes to allow it to really saturate my hair with all that good moisture.
  • Wash your hair in two-strand twisted sections. This will help to prevent additional tangles and knots. Anywhere from 4-8 sections should be sufficient.
  • Focus your cleansing efforts mainly on your scalp, using the pads of your fingertips to massage. Never use your nails!
  • Use a back-and-forth massage motion on you scalp rather than a circular motion. Again, the thought here is to reduce the formation of knots and tangles.
  • Allow shampoo to travel the length of your hair with the rinse water. There’s no need to actually scrub the hair itself; the rinse down will work fine.  Remember, your hair strands are delicate and friction on them may cause damage.
  • Experiment with a scalp massaging shampoo brush. Mine vibrates to give my scalp more of a massage during washing.  It also helps me to better clear away buildup and dead skin cells. 


Making a Shampoo Choice

So, choosing a shampoo for natural hair is not a decision you should take lightly.  Depending on your overall hair routine and goals, one shampoo may not fulfill all your needs.  You must keep yourself open to experiment a little to ensure you’re using the best product(s) for your hair.  When looking for a new shampoo in my regular regimen, I try to find a product that meets my shampoo wish list:

  • Sulfate free (sulfates can strip the hair leaving it dry)
  • Good product reviews/ratings
  • Moisture rich
  • Addresses my needs (i.e. repairs split ends, adds protein, reduces breakage)
  • Has an ingredient I have fallen in love with, such as tea tree, argan, or panthenol (Provitamin B5)

 

What’s Currently in Natural Hair Nysa’s Cabinet?

I usually have a mix of hair cleansing products (and other hair-related items for that matter) at my disposal.  The list below shows what I am currently using with a brief review on why I like it.

Kirkland Signature Professional Salon Formula Moisture Shampoo, 33.8 Fl. Oz.
This was the first shampoo I started using when I embarked on my natural hair journey.  I feel like it thoroughly cleans my hair and gives back some moisture.  My husband also uses this shampoo, so it helps to save us a little in the money department.

 

Trader Joe’s Tea Tree Tingle Shampoo with Peppermint, Tea Tree and Eucalyptus Botanicals, 16-Ounces
I actually fell in love with the companion conditioner to the product first before buying the shampoo.  The “tingle” in the name is rightly given.  My scalp feels refreshed after using it.  Moreover, this product contains peppermint, rosemary, thyme, and eucalyptus in addition to tea tree leaf.  These all help to create the best scalp environment for hair growth.

 

OGX Renewing Moroccan Argan Oil Shampoo, Salon Size, (1) 25.4 Ounce Bottle, Paraben Free, Sulfate Free, Sustainable Ingredients, Strengthens, Softens and Protects
I would call this a definite staple in my cabinet.  This shampoo is moisture rich, and my hair drinks it up.  It contains argan oil and panthenol.  It helps to smooth my hair and make it more manageable.

 

ORLANDO PITA Argan Gloss Shampoo w/ Moroccan Argan Oil 798ml/27 oz
It love, love, love this shampoo!  I have been using it for about a month now, and it is quickly becoming a must have.  It definitely smooths and softens my hair.  I have even found myself being able to do light detangling with this shampoo (not able to do that with others).  In addition to argan oil, this shampoo contains sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, and hydrolyzed soy protein (my hair says, “YUM!”).

 

Cantu Shea Butter for Natural Hair Complete Conditioning Co-Wash, 10 Ounce
I don’t usually have to co-wash often, but this is a decent product to try.  It has numerous butters and oils, and my hair does feel clean after using it.  This product does not make suds like with a normal shampoo (you have been forewarned), but it still gets the job done.  It is also relatively inexpensive.

 

It’s a Wrap

Navigating the world of cleansing natural hair can be a challenge.  However, it is well worth effort once you find a product(s) and routine that works well for you.  I haven’t even come close to finishing my experimentation in this department.  So, I imagine there will be much more to come on shampoos & co-washes in this blog’s future.

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