Are you a little confused and overwhelmed about natural hair conditioning with a regular conditioner versus a deep conditioner? If so, you are not alone. Even though a wealth of information on the topic exists, many naturals may remain mystified about the differences between the two, especially at the beginning of an initial natural hair journey. Being totally honest, it took me some time to acquire the proper knowledge to effectively apply what I had learned in my hair regimen. So, if you’re ready to dispel some of that confusion and calm the overwhelm about natural hair conditioning with regular & deep conditioners, just keep reading.
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How are regular conditioners and deep conditioners similar?
Both regular conditioners and deep conditioners are primarily used after the cleansing/shampooing process. You utilize them to restore moisture to natural hair. Conditioners help to promote better hair manageability, elasticity, and shine. Additionally, they encourage a reduction in frizz and hair friction.
Did you know your hair has a pH balance between 4.5 and 5.5? Washing causes your hair to lose positively charged hydrogen cations, leaving your hair negatively charged. Damaged hair also carries a stronger negative charge than healthy hair. Most conditioner formulations exhibit a positive charge. Since opposites attract, conditioners have the ability to easily attach to your hair strands after washing and/or when hair is damaged. pH-balanced conditioners restore the lost cations to your hair and scalp, helping to flatten the cuticle. This action assists hair strands in retaining the moisture and other goodies (oils, nutrients, protein, vitamins, etc.) in the hair shaft.
Now, let’s cover the obvious elephant in the room.
What is the difference between regular conditioners and deep conditioners?
Now, let’s discuss the differences between conditioner types. You apply regular conditioners and leave them on the hair usually for 2-5 minutes after shampooing and/or clarifying. These conditioners tend to be of a thinner consistency than deep conditioners. The penetrating effect of regular conditioners is less than deep conditioners. This is usually due to processing time and concentration of ingredients.
On the other hand, a deep conditioner’s ingredients penetrate hair more intensely than a regular conditioner. Deep conditioners are usually thicker and contain more concentrated hair goodies when compared to a regular conditioner. These conditioners have an average processing time of 20-30 minutes. The concentrated ingredients and longer processing time aid the deep conditioner’s ability to better address extremely dry and/or damaged hair.
How do I decide between a regular conditioner or a deep conditioner (or both)?
When making the decision on which product(s) to use during the natural hair conditioning step in a regimen, you should evaluate your hair circumstances and overall desired outcome. Is your moisture-protein balance in check? Is your hair reasonably undamaged? Have you applied a deep conditioner during the last few days? Did you use a moisturizing shampoo to cleanse your hair? If you answered all of these questions “yes”, then you are probably okay to simply use a regular conditioner before proceeding to the next step in your regimen.
Naturals with damaged hair from over manipulation, heat, friction, etc. will see better natural hair conditioning results with a deep conditioner. In addition, a deep conditioner may be warranted if a specific hair issue needs addressing. These issues could be protein loss, severe lack of moisture, damaged ends, etc. Whether one uses a regular conditioner or deep conditioner, the product should be chosen carefully to ensure it meets your natural hair’s needs.
Regular and Deep Conditioning in the Same Session and Hygral Fatigue
Most hair professionals will tell you to utilize either a regular conditioner or deep conditioner. Hairdressers generally frown on using both in the same washing session. Over conditioning may lead to limp, mushy hair, a loss of hair elasticity, and/or breakage from hygral fatigue (hair cuticle damage caused by continued entering and exiting of extreme moisture). Over conditioning may also excessively coat hair. This prevents additional ingredients from penetrating the hair shaft. All of this can leave hair difficult to style.
Having said that, many naturals use both regular conditioner and deep conditioner on their natural hair with little to no problems. Although using regular and deep conditioners during the same session is not recommended, each individual must find what works best for his/her hair. You need to stay attentive to your natural hair needs and adjust your regimen as needed to promote your healthiest hair.
On more thing to note, persons with high porosity hair (like mine) are more prone to hygral fatigue than those with a lower hair porosity. So, those with high porosity need to pay extra attention to how hair reacts to the conditioning process. Do you know your hair’s porosity? If not, you can easily test it at home. Check out this Hair Porosity Tests video from Healthy Afro Hair for 5 straightforward ways to determine your hair’s porosity.
What are the tips for applying regular conditioners and deep conditioners to achieve awesome results?
Generally, you apply conditioners to freshly washed (and clarified) hair. Simply smooth your chosen product into your hair, making sure to coat each strand along its entire length. Individuals should be special attention to the ends of the strands, as these are the oldest parts of your hair.
After allowing the product to process on your natural hair for the suggested length of time, rinse the product from hair using cool water. By decreasing the temperature of this final rinse, you will help close the hair shaft, thus retaining the moisture and other goodies from the conditioner.
Additional tips for applying conditioner to natural hair include the following:
- If utilizing regular conditioner to assist in detangling, choose a product with lots of slip. This allows hair strands to glide by each other more easily, making the detangling process less problematic.
- You can always add a little kick to your regular conditioner by mixing additional oils (avocado, olive, argan, or any other of your choice) into the product.
- Try heating up you’re your deep conditioners to increase penetration of the hair shaft.
- I personally use the Project E Beauty Personal 2 in 1 Facial + Hair Steamer
during my deep natural hair conditioning process. It provides the heat and adds moisture to my hair. Since I began steaming, I have noticed an improvement in the moisture levels of my hair. This is a staple tool in my hair regimen, and I really don’t know how I got along without this piece of equipment for as long as I did. - Using a hooded hair dryer is a great alternative to the steamer (this is the method I usually use when I am not steaming). You need to cover you deep conditioner laden hair with a processing cap before getting under the dryer. Remember the objective is to heat, not dry the deep conditioner into the hair. For those just starting out or looking for an inexpensive hooded dryer, I would suggest a hooded dryer attachment for your handheld hair dryer. Check out Hair Flair’s Deluxe Softhood Bonnet Hair Dryer Attachment.
- A deep conditioning cap also heats up the conditioner during processing. A cap to consider would be Tifara Beauty’s Cordless Deep Conditioning Heat Cap. It’s easy to use; simply place it in the microwave to heat it up. Then place on your head over your processing cap. What I like about this cap is the ability to multi-task while I am deep conditioning since I don’t have to sit under the steamer or dryer.
- I personally use the Project E Beauty Personal 2 in 1 Facial + Hair Steamer
during my deep natural hair conditioning process. It provides the heat and adds moisture to my hair. Since I began steaming, I have noticed an improvement in the moisture levels of my hair. This is a staple tool in my hair regimen, and I really don’t know how I got along without this piece of equipment for as long as I did. 
.
. It’s easy to use; simply place it in the microwave to heat it up. Then place on your head over your processing cap. What I like about this cap is the ability to multi-task while I am deep conditioning since I don’t have to sit under the steamer or dryer.
- Do some sort of natural hair conditioning after every shampoo, but don’t deep condition more frequently than once a week. You don’t want to over condition and weigh down your natural hair.
What conditioning products should I try?
Honestly, you should begin trying products that match your hair type, porosity, and current hair situation. Okay, I am going to just put it out there . . . I am in love with conditioners. You could call me a product junkie when it comes to regular and deep conditioners.
I am constantly trying new products to see if there’s another conditioner out there to replace one of my staples. Staple replacement does not happen often in my regimen, but it does still happen. I always recommend trying a new product at least twice before deciding to keep or pitch it. Of course, if the first usage causes serious adverse effects on your natural hair, then trash it.
Okay . . . you want a listing of natural hair conditioners to try, right? Check out next week’s post on conditioners I can’t live without for a listing of the products currently in my beauty closet.
It’s a Wrap!
Don’t let conditioning confuse or overwhelm you! Now you have the knowledge to effectively slay the natural hair conditioning beast. I personally look at the natural hair conditioning process as the foundation of my styling. Without it, my hairstyle will end up as a hot mess. Excellent natural hair conditioning practices are a must for all naturals to add much-needed moisture, shine, and manageability after washing.
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